Pest Control Services
After termites, wood-boring beetles are the most important wood-destroying insects in homes. The amount of damage that wood-boring beetles cause depends on many factors. The type of wood (hardwood or softwood), the moisture content of the wood and the environmental conditions at the infestation site all affect the severity of beetle damage.
The team WOODBORING BEETLE encompasses many species and families of beetles whose larval or adult forms eat and destroy wood (i.e., are xylophagous). In the woodworking industry, larval stages of some are sometimes referred to as woodworms. The three most speciose families of woodboring beetles and longhorn beetles, bark beetles and weevils, and metallic flat-headed borers. Woodboring beetles are commonly detected a few years after new construction. The lumber supply may have contained wood infected with beetle eggs or larvae, and since beetle life cycles can be one or more years, several years may pass before the presence of beetles becomes noticeable.
There are several factors you should consider before starting control measures for wood-boring beetles. The first is that no control may be necessary. Many homes have some damage from wood-boring beetles. However, in many cases the damage is very minor and old, which means that all the beetles have died. Unless you see beetles or fresh wood powder around the holes, chemical treatment is not necessary. Fresh wood powder is usually light in color and does not clump. Old wood powder is often yellowed and clumps together.
Also, there are many beetles in nature that attack wood but do not cause serious damage or reinfest lumber in homes. It is important to know which beetles you have before you go to the trouble and expense of some of the treatments.
Finally, with the advent of central air conditioning and heating, the potential for widespread damage has decreased. In fact, even with the more serious lyctid and anobiid beetles, if a house has no moisture problems, has a central cooling and heating system, and is not unoccupied for long periods, serious problems are not likely.
For active wood-boring beetle infestations, several spot treatments are possible. These include controlling wood moisture, using surface covers, mechanical removal, freezing, and insecticide treatments.
Moisture problems are most commonly found in the lumber in crawl spaces. A crawl space should be well ventilated and, in many cases, should have a vapor barrier. Generally, plastic sheets (4 mil polyethylene) covering 70 percent of the crawl space will keep the lumber from getting too moist. Surface cover, including paint, polyurethane, and water sealants, will protect wood from moisture problems and help prevent wood-boring beetles from penetrating the wood.
Surface treatments usually do not prevent beetles already in wood from emerging. If an infestation is limited to a few pieces of lumber, or if the lumber can be removed easily, replacing the wood may be the best control strategy.
Freezing temperatures can kill wood-boring beetles, especially in small furniture. If you have access to a large freezer, you might want to consider this control option. Wood subjected to freezing should be wrapped in plastic. Freeze the item for about two weeks. After removing it from the freezer, leave the item wrapped until it reaches room temperature. This protects the wood from water marks due to condensation as the item warms. Also, handle the item carefully since glue joints are very fragile when frozen.
Most insecticides for wood-boring beetles are restricted and can be used only by certified pest control operators. You may be able to find some insecticides at hardware or discount stores labeled for wood-boring beetles around the home, but very few products are available to the public any longer. Before applying an insecticide, remove any surface covering, such as paint, so the insecticide can penetrate the wood. As with any insecticide, you must follow the specific instructions on the label of the product you buy. Since pest control operators have access to a wider range of insecticides and equipment, your best option may be to employ a professional.
In situations where spot treatments have failed or in serious infestations where there are large numbers of beetles throughout the structure, fumigation may be the best control option. The penetration of fumigants can kill wood-boring beetles in all areas of the home. However, fumigants cannot prevent future wood-boring beetle infestations.
Fumigation is expensive, complicated and can only be done by a certified pest control operator. Before employing a professional, get quotes from several reputable firms.
White to brown-grey or bluish-silver in color, silverfish are teardrop-shaped insects that measure up to12-19 mm in length. Three long bristles on the rear. Grow from egg to adult without visible change in appearance.
Capable of thriving in most climates, silverfish prefer to dwell in dark, damp areas such as basements, attics, kitchens and bathrooms. They are especially attracted to paper and damp clothing. Commonly found in stored boxes in garages and sheds.
Silverfish feed on carbohydrates, particularly sugars and starches. Cellulose, shampoos, glue in books, linen, silk and dead insects may be food sources. Have been found in unopened food packages.
Silverfish undergo love dances prior to mating. Males lay spermatophores, which are taken into the ovipositor of female specimens. Females’ egg numbers and habits vary, depending on species. One species lays a few eggs a day where as another species lays clusters of 2 to 20 eggs.
Most often, homeowners detect silverfish when they find one on the floor or in a sink or bathtub. Their feeding damage also can indicate their presence, along with their tiny pepper-like feces.
Centipedes, earwigs, and spiders are known to feed on silverfish.
Silverfish are nocturnal and move very quickly. They are secretive, and the severity of an infestation may go unnoticed for long periods of time, allowing for exponential growth. Silverfish reproduce quickly.
Silverfish are known for their destructive feeding habits, oftentimes ruining papers, clothing, and wallpaper. They commonly infest dark, damp areas around paper and linen sources. Silverfish infestations can be found in kitchens, laundry rooms, bathrooms, attics, and basements.
Silverfish can survive in almost any environment, but they prefer areas with high humidity. Nymphs develop faster in areas that are humid. Therefore, one of the best ways to prevent an infestation is to control humidity. In crawl spaces, open vents and in basements, use baseboards with caulking. Silverfish consume a variety of foods, and stringent housekeeping practices may help prevent an infestation by limiting potential feeding sites.
However, if your home already hosts a silverfish population, hiring a professional who can create a customized approach is recommended. Traps and insecticides sold in stores will only kill individual insects and cannot address an entire infestation. Some people try to use cinnamon to repel silverfish from certain areas, but it does not kill the insects or their eggs.
Addressing a silverfish infestation requires treatment of both adult silverfish and their harborage. Most do-it-yourself remedies prove ineffective over time, with brief periods of relief followed by another infestation (by aaron at dh). There are a variety of silverfish traps on the market. However, these traps target individual insects and cannot prevent entire silverfish populations.
Silverfish infestations require professional treatment. Your local pest control expert will be able to assess the situation within your home and determine the most effective methods of extermination for your specific problem. At the first sign of a silverfish infestation, contact your local pest control professional. Scheduling a home inspection may help you get rid of silverfish.